<h3><SPAN name="VI_SEVENTEENTH_COMMONWEALTH" id="VI_SEVENTEENTH_COMMONWEALTH"></SPAN>SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. THE COMMONWEALTH. MALE AND FEMALE.</h3>
<p>The same shapes apply to costume during the Commonwealth, though a
sterner effect was given by the choice of plain decoration and less
colour. A small or a large plain collar, and the disappearance of
slashings<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_169" id="Page_169"></SPAN></span> on the coat, and a longer skirt became noticeable. A very
high tapered hat, with stiff circular brim, was worn by the Puritans,
and little, close, black hoods were much favoured. A general reaction
from gay extravagance set in.</p>
<h3><SPAN name="VI_SEVENTEENTH_CHARLES_II_FEMALE" id="VI_SEVENTEENTH_CHARLES_II_FEMALE"></SPAN>SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES II. FEMALE.</h3>
<p>The hair was set out from the head on combs with falling ringlets, and
several small flat ringlets were placed on the forehead. The back of the
hair was plaited into a knot, and pearl strings were interlaced, or
ribbon loops caught in at either side. Toward 1680 the hair was worn
tightly curled and fulled out into a round shape with a curl or two
falling on the front of the shoulders; small feathers or long feathers
were also worn. Hats were of a similar shape to those of the last reign,
with a stiffer and narrower curved brim; but the chief head-dress was a
large hood faced with another material, which latter was tied under the
chin; these mostly formed part of a cape also.</p>
<p><SPAN name="Page_170" id="Page_170"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig072" name="fig072"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig072.png" width-obs="682" height-obs="462" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 72.</span>—Period 1650-1685.</p> </div>
<p><SPAN id="plate17" name="plate17"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate17thumb.jpg" width-obs="387" height-obs="261" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="linktext"><SPAN href="images/plate17full.jpg">larger image</SPAN></p> <p class="caption">Plate XVII.</p>
<ul>
<li>(<i>a</i>) Silk Suit. 1765-80.</li>
<li>(<i>b</i>) Quilted Dress. 1700-25.</li>
<li>(<i>c</i>) Silk-embroidered Suit. 1765-80.</li>
</ul></div>
<p><SPAN name="Page_171" id="Page_171"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig073" name="fig073"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig073.png" width-obs="456" height-obs="610" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 73.</span><br/> 1, 2, 3, 4.—Back and Front of two Corset Bodices. Period Charles II.<br/>
5, 6.—Two Corsets. Period Charles II.<br/>
7, 8.—Two Bodice types. Period Charles I.</p>
</div>
<p>The bodice again became much longer and of a pointed shape, but many
corset bodices took a round point, and a round<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_172" id="Page_172"></SPAN></span> neck coming well off
the shoulders became general, usually decorated with a plain wide band
of lace. Ruffs and collars were no longer seen amongst the upper
classes. Very full sleeves and large opened sleeves were tied or clasped
over full lawn ones, and at times separated from the shoulders, being
caught effectively with jewels. Groups of ribbons were placed at the
breast or point of the bodice, and the ends of sleeves or shoulders,
besides at the fronts of the outer skirt when divided, also in the
gathering of the lawn sleeves. Stomachers were not much worn, but a
drape of soft silk was caught here and there round the neck of bodice,
and large draperies were clasped to the shoulders. Loose robes and robes
shaped to the figure, opening down the front from the neck even to the
waist, with a clasp or several holding them together; these were worn
over a quilted linen corset laced in front as in the illustration, but
the bodice was often formed on a corset. Long gloves and mittens were in
use, and small muffs with ribbon loops on the front were carried.
High-heeled shoes with very long square toes were affected in imitation
of the male shoe, but most ladies now began to wear a very pointed
shoe.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_173" id="Page_173"></SPAN></span></p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_174" id="Page_174"></SPAN></span><SPAN id="fig074" name="fig074"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig074.png" width-obs="432" height-obs="759" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 74.</span>—Sleeve treatments. Period Charles II.</p> </div>
<h3><SPAN name="VI_SEVENTEENTH_CHARLES_II_MALE" id="VI_SEVENTEENTH_CHARLES_II_MALE"></SPAN>SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES II. MALE.</h3>
<p>Long hair or wigs of long curls falling on the shoulders, a very narrow
moustache and point of beard on the chin came with this reign. Lace
collars of a smaller square or rounded shape were in use, but a fall of
lace pleated in the centre soon took its place. High-crowned hats with a
band and bow in front and a flat, waved, or curved brim, with feathers
on either side or all round, were the fashion, the crowns becoming
shorter during the reign; the fronts and sometimes the sides of the brim
are seen turned up, and so begins to form the three-cornered hat, which
remained so long a feature in history.</p>
<p><SPAN name="Page_175" id="Page_175"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig075" name="fig075"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig075.png" width-obs="702" height-obs="443" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 75.</span>—Period Charles II.</p> </div>
<p>We find with extravagant shapes a happy return of gay colours. The
high-waisted jerkins of the Charles I period were now seen without the
skirt (as very short jackets), leaving the lawn shirt to show between
this and the breeches, besides which the jackets were nearly always left
unbuttoned several inches up, some being cut away in a rounded shape and
also having short sleeves. The lower arm was<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_176" id="Page_176"></SPAN></span> covered with a full lawn
sleeve caught at two or even three distances with a loop of ribbons or
bows, and finishing with a wide lace frill; a bunch of ribbon loops was
also often seen on the right shoulder. A long circular cloak, with
turned-back fronts forming a collar in many, still retained the hanging
sleeve, and was mostly decorated with bands of heavy braid. A long
square coat also came in about 1666, buttoned right down the front, with
pockets set very low in the skirt, and large narrow cuffs opened at the
back as in Plate <SPAN href="#plate08">VIII</SPAN> (see p. <SPAN href="#Page_90">90</SPAN>).</p>
<p>Very full breeches were worn to just about the knee or shorter, with a
fringe of ribbon loops, and a row or several rows of the same were
arranged at the waist. A short petticoat just showed the under breeches,
many of which were turned into a doublet shape by an additional piece
looped up loosely from the knee with a silk filling; the ribbon loops at
the waist were repeated up the sides of the petticoat. Silk garters were
worn with bows on both sides of the leg, or a deep lace fall came from
the end of the breeches to the middle of the calf; a lace setting also
filled the wide top of the boots, which was worn very low, even to the
ankles. These short<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></SPAN></span> bell-topped boots were favoured, with high heels
and very square toes. Shoes were long and square (or duck-billed) at the
toes; and had a high narrow front to the instep, and latchets fastened
with a stiffened butterfly bow, besides, at times, a rosette lower down
on the front: red heels were in evidence. The sword-band was very wide,
and many were decorated with gold embroidery.</p>
<p><SPAN name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig076" name="fig076"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig076.png" width-obs="758" height-obs="453" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 76.</span>—Costume types. Period Charles II.</p> </div>
<h3><SPAN name="VI_SEVENTEENTH_JAMES_II_FEMALE" id="VI_SEVENTEENTH_JAMES_II_FEMALE"></SPAN>SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. JAMES II. FEMALE.</h3>
<p>The hair was still worn full at the sides over a comb, as in the former
reign, with curls dropping to the shoulders, but they now began to
discard the set-out comb and the little flat curls on the forehead, the
hair being of a round shape or parted from the centre and mounted higher
and narrower on the head, in the latter part of this reign. The same
large hoods and drapes continued in use, and a high goffered head-dress
with set-out front began to appear; the same shaped bodice with round
low neck showing the shoulders, often set with a stomacher front or
jewelled in that form, and smaller decorations of ribbon loops were
still favoured. A smaller and<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></SPAN></span> shorter sleeve began to appear with a
turned-up cuff, and the gathered-in lawn sleeves and ruffles caught here
and there with pearls or clasps as before, besides the same light
drapery clasped about the breast front. The overskirt was now looped
back, the points being held together, giving a wide display of the
underskirt, which was heavily banded or had a jewel setting down the
front. Other train skirts, also divided in front, were bordered with
drawn silk caught at intervals into long puffs. Very small muffs were
the fashion. Shoes increased their pointed shape and rather large heels
are to be noted, but some shoes assumed a very narrow square toe; they
were either tied from small latchets with a bow, or with buckled
latchets. Longer gloves were worn, and large full cloaks with hoods or
large drapery wraps when required for outdoor wear.</p>
<p><SPAN name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig077" name="fig077"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig077.png" width-obs="448" height-obs="709" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 77.</span>—Costume notes. Period 1670-1690.</p> </div>
<h3><SPAN name="VI_SEVENTEENTH_JAMES_II_MALE" id="VI_SEVENTEENTH_JAMES_II_MALE"></SPAN>SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. JAMES II. MALE.</h3>
<p>The same long wig was worn as in the last reign, but the curls were more
of a set ringlet type, and embroidered caps were worn when these were
taken off. The face was now clean shaven until the 19th<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></SPAN></span> century. Hats
also of the older character were retained, but the turned-up
three-cornered shape, filled with short feathers, became more settled in
fashion, and they were heavily banded with gold braid or lace on the
edge.</p>
<p><SPAN name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig078" name="fig078"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig078.png" width-obs="452" height-obs="754" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 78.</span>—Period 1690-1700.</p> </div>
<p>A smart bow was worn crosswise over the folded lace fall at the neck.
The coat was a very long square shape to the knees, the stiff skirt
often set out over rather full breeches, which were sometimes "shorts,"
and just above the knee, the stocking being often brought up above the
knee, with a garter just below. The sleeves were short, above or below
the elbow, with a turned-up cuff, leaving the full-gathered lawn sleeve
with a lace ruffle to show at the wrist. A sash encircled the waist, and
often shut in the sword-belt, which hung from the right shoulder. The
coat had buttons from the neck to the bottom of the skirt, though the
lower buttons were seldom fastened; the sides of the skirt were opened
up about 11 inches, and also the back seam to the same height; most
seams were heavily decorated with gold, silver braid, or lace, and the
pockets were placed rather low down towards the front of the skirt, and
were sometimes set vertically.</p>
<p><SPAN id="plate18" name="plate18"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate18thumb.jpg" width-obs="394" height-obs="256" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="linktext"><SPAN href="images/plate18full.jpg">larger image</SPAN></p> <p class="caption">Plate XVIII.</p>
<ul>
<li>(<i>a</i>) Brocade Bodice. 1770-85.</li>
<li>(<i>b</i>) Flowered Silk Dress. 1750-70.</li>
<li>(<i>c</i>) Silk Brocade Bodice. 1780-95.</li>
</ul></div>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></SPAN></span><SPAN id="fig079" name="fig079"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig079.png" width-obs="434" height-obs="748" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 79.</span>—Period 1688-1702.</p> </div>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></SPAN></span>Long round capes were still worn, without sleeves, and a collar turned
down about 4 inches.</p>
<p>Shoes of a similar shape to those of the later Charles II type were in
use, but the heels became larger and the toes not so long; the top of
the front was sometimes shaped and turned down. Heavy boots to the knee,
with large curved tops, were also in favour, as in the illustration
(Fig. <SPAN href="#fig071">71</SPAN>).</p>
<h3><SPAN name="VI_SEVENTEENTH_WILLIAM_MARY_FEMALE" id="VI_SEVENTEENTH_WILLIAM_MARY_FEMALE"></SPAN>SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. WILLIAM AND MARY. FEMALE.</h3>
<p>The hair was now mounted high on top and the front parted with two
curls, the rest of the hair being bound on top, or a curl was arranged
on either shoulder. A goffered frill head-dress, set on a cap, rose very
high, and a long fall of lace, or lappets, came down on either side from
the cap, or was gathered in like a small hood at the back. Bare
shoulders now began to disappear, the bodice shape coming over the
shoulder to a <span class="f">V</span> shape enclosing a stomacher, which was sometimes tabbed
or shaped at the point. Many dresses were made in one length, caught
together at the waist with a band; the fronts of<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></SPAN></span> these skirts were
looped back high up, creating a pannier-like fullness at the hips, and
narrow hoops came in to set out the skirts, many of which were heavily
embroidered with gold. The Watteau-back dress started in this reign; a
very early specimen, at the Victoria and Albert Museum, is most probably
of this time (Fig. <SPAN href="#fig085">85</SPAN>, A). The sleeves worn to the elbow increased in
width from the shoulder, and were set with large narrow cuffs gathered
with a jewel or bow on the front<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></SPAN></span> of the arm. Hoods and cloaks of the
same character as described for the last reign continued, and light
sticks were carried by the ladies. Very pointed shoes were worn, with
large high heels, the top of the front flap in some being shaped into
points. Black masks were frequently used, some having long lace falls.
Rather small muffs were still the fashion, and beautifully decorated
short aprons became a feature with the dress.</p>
<p><SPAN id="fig080" name="fig080"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig080.png" width-obs="372" height-obs="314" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 80.</span>—1688-1698.</p> </div>
<h3><SPAN name="VI_SEVENTEENTH_WILLIAM_MARY_MALE" id="VI_SEVENTEENTH_WILLIAM_MARY_MALE"></SPAN>SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. WILLIAM AND MARY. MALE.</h3>
<p>Wigs of the same long character continued, and were parted in the centre
with a raised effect, and variously shaped caps, with turned-up fold or
brim, were worn when the wig was taken off.</p>
<p>The beaver or felt hat, turned up three-cornerwise, was now in general
use. It is often seen with the brims loose, or sometimes down,
especially amongst the lower classes. Both small shapes and large were
worn.</p>
<p><SPAN id="plate19" name="plate19"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate19thumb.jpg" width-obs="394" height-obs="271" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="linktext"><SPAN href="images/plate19full.jpg">larger image</SPAN></p> <p class="caption">Plate XIX.</p>
<ul>
<li>(<i>a</i>) Silk Brocade Dress. 1775-85.</li>
<li>(<i>b</i>) Embroidered Silk Jacket. 1775-90. <i>Pattern, see p. <SPAN href="#Page_326">326</SPAN>.</i></li>
<li>(<i>c</i>) Brocade Jacket. 1780-95. <i>Cap pattern, see p. <SPAN href="#Page_331">331</SPAN>.</i> <i>Coat pattern, see p. <SPAN href="#Page_348">348</SPAN>.</i></li>
</ul></div>
<p><SPAN name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig081" name="fig081"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig081.png" width-obs="452" height-obs="640" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 81.</span>—Period 1680-1690.</p> </div>
<p>Black ties across formal lace cravats, and long lawn cravats, edged with
lace, one end of which was sometimes caught<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></SPAN></span> up loosely through the
large buttonhole of the coat were worn. Waistcoats were left open well
down to the waist; some of these were nearly of the same length as the
coat, the skirt being often edged with deep gold fringe.</p>
<p>The coats were of much the same character as in the time of James II,
with buttons all down the front, but now it was the mode to button coats
just at the waist, allowing the waistcoat to be shown. The sleeves were
generally longer, to the middle of the forearm, and the turned-back
cuffs became very large and deep, often towards the end of the reign
taking a curved shape. The seams, fronts, and pockets were frequently
braided as before. A long square waistcoat of rich brocade or
embroidered material, about four inches shorter than the coat, was worn;
some of these had tight sleeves, which came to the wrist beneath the
outer coat-sleeve; otherwise a gathered lawn sleeve with ruffle was
worn.</p>
<p>Shoes and boots were practically the same as in the previous reign, with
larger high heels and a high square front, with latchets buckled or
stiffly tied, and very square toes. Top-boots of the same heavy
character continued as in Plate <SPAN href="#plate02">II</SPAN> (see<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></SPAN></span> p. <SPAN href="#Page_42">42</SPAN>). Stockings continued to
be worn frequently above the knee outside the breeches, with a garter
beneath, and beautifully embroidered clocks to the calf. Muffs were
carried by many men, and the gauntlets of gloves had a very angular
shape. Patches and make-up were used by the dandies, and the sword was
now carried through the side pleats on a waist-belt sometimes worn
outside the waistcoat.</p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />