<h2><SPAN name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></SPAN>CHAPTER VII<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></SPAN></span></h2>
<h3><SPAN name="VII_EIGHTEENTH_DECORATION" id="VII_EIGHTEENTH_DECORATION"></SPAN>THE CHARACTER OF DECORATION AND TRIMMINGS OF THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY.</h3>
<p>In the early part to the middle of this century the trimmings were
chiefly of gold or silver lace, real lace, and purfled silk, mostly of
the same material as the dress: a bow was often worn on the breast, and
also in the front of the sleeve cuff. Purfled or ruched trimming
generally ran down the front of the dress from the neck to the hem of
the skirt in the Second Georgian dress, and gathered borders or
decorations of curved forms were in use. The skirts usually had only one
flounce till the reign of George III, when the trimmings became more
elaborate, and gauze and imitation flowers were festooned upon the
skirts, with ribbons and tassels and padded designs standing out in
strong<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></SPAN></span> relief; some charming gimp trimmings are also seen.</p>
<p>The lace ruffles of a fan shape which finished the earlier sleeves till
about 1745 were sometimes of lace, interwoven with gold, silver, and
coloured silk needlework, and this was no doubt the forerunner of the
use of the more solid material itself. The setting of the sleeve finish
is interesting to note all through this period, for it was beautifully
treated in balancing the effect of the dress. The square cuff with the
deep lace fall was big in style, and the later closely-fitted elbow
piece, richly gathered, was happily conceived, but no finer setting
could have been applied to the sack-back dress than the large fan or
double fan with its lace fall. The edges of the early fan-finished
sleeves were of curved and scalloped forms, the latter shaping often
being seen in the later sleeves.</p>
<p>With George III we notice designs in straw work, decorations of
imitation flowers in ribbon-work and various materials, and much taste
in the choice of colour schemes, while the tassels of this period were
delightful creations. The designs of stuffs at the early part of the<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></SPAN></span>
century were generally of fine strong colour blends, but in the middle
period there was much questionable taste displayed in the heavy massing
of patterns, but this soon improved with the striped character crossed
by running flowers which was quite ideal in type for costume keeping,
grace, and lightness, with a beautiful interchange of colour.</p>
<p>The quilted silk and satin petticoats are a special feature to note in
these times; many simple and effective designs were in use, and they
added much glitter to the scheme. Aprons were also beautiful examples of
needlework, and were worn with the best of dresses to the middle of the
century; the earlier ones generally had a scalloped edging, and many had
pockets; gold lace edging or fringe was often used in the time of George
II, and they were all finely decorated with needlework in gold, silver,
or coloured silks. The white aprons were also of consummate needlecraft,
and hanging pockets worn at the sides were also a decorated feature, but
these only showed when the dress was worn tucked up. The later style of
dress became much simpler, consisting chiefly of gathered flounce
settings, fichus, and large<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_193" id="Page_193"></SPAN></span> mob caps; these were often daintily
embroidered with tambour work and large bow and sash settings, making
delightful costumes.</p>
<p>Bags, muffs, gloves, and shoes were all chosen for the display of
needlecraft, while artists and jewellers used all their skill on the
fans, patch-boxes, and �tuis, and even the dress materials were often
painted by hand, while many painted Chinese silks were also utilised.</p>
<h3><SPAN name="VII_EIGHTEENTH_ANNE_FEMALE" id="VII_EIGHTEENTH_ANNE_FEMALE"></SPAN>EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. ANNE. FEMALE.</h3>
<p>The hair was dressed in a simple manner, with two curls parted from the
centre of the forehead, and curved inwards on the brow. A loose ringlet
or two were brought on to the left shoulder, the rest being gathered
into a back-knot. Feathers or flowers were arranged on top, generally
with a pair of lace lappets falling to the back; these also adorned the
cap, which still bore the front goffered frills set out as in the last
reign, but these were diminished in size and were mostly of one row. We
note probably the last stage of this style appearing in a print of
Hogarth's, dated 1740.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_194" id="Page_194"></SPAN></span><SPAN id="fig082" name="fig082"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig082.png" width-obs="457" height-obs="693" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 82.</span>—Bodice types. Period 1690-1720.</p> </div>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_195" id="Page_195"></SPAN></span><SPAN id="fig083" name="fig083"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig083.png" width-obs="317" height-obs="759" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 83.</span>—Costume type. 1695-1710.</p> </div>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_196" id="Page_196"></SPAN></span>Hoods and capes or cloaks, and long black fichus or wraps, were the
chief coverings, as the head-dress did not allow of hats being worn, but
with the small frilled caps a little straw hat, or a low-crowned felt
with a largish brim, are seen, and a small lace frill round the neck
began to appear. Bodices with a low curved neck often had a short skirt
or shaped pieces, as well as a shaped short sleeve over a gathered lawn
one, while many wore long sleeves to the wrist, and a waistbelt is
sometimes noted. There was also the sleeve spreading in width to the
elbow, with a turned-up square cuff. The front of the bodice may be
remarked with bands fastening across, and this became a feature in many
dresses later in this century, otherwise it set closely over the
shoulders to a <span class="f">V</span> shape at the waist, and was filled with a stomacher of
fine needlework, bows, or the ends of the lawn fichu laced or caught in
by a big bow. A full, loose gown, with the fullness pleated to back and
front, came in, the front being held by a bow and the back allowed to
fall loose or crossed with a large bow at the back of waist, as in the
museum specimen, Fig. <SPAN href="#fig085">85</SPAN>. This became the more elaborate sack-back
dress.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_197" id="Page_197"></SPAN></span><SPAN id="fig084" name="fig084"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig084.png" width-obs="452" height-obs="770" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 84.</span>—Period 1700-1725.</p> </div>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_198" id="Page_198"></SPAN></span>The skirts began to be set out in a bell form, and trains were in much
favour; the overskirts were parted in front, and many looped up to the
back in a similar manner to the last reign. Small aprons of fine
embroidery were worn with the best of dresses, and embroidered pockets
are seen when the skirts were thrown back. Petticoats of fine quilting
became much appreciated, and tall sticks were carried by ladies. Pointed
shoes with high heels and latchets tied or buckled, the top of the
fronts being mostly cut into four points, or they had a square finish.</p>
<h3><SPAN name="VII_EIGHTEENTH_ANNE_MALE" id="VII_EIGHTEENTH_ANNE_MALE"></SPAN>EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. ANNE. MALE.</h3>
<p>The wigs of the full ringlet style were still the fashion, but a simpler
character is noticeable, the hair being combed back off the forehead and
allowed to fall in looser waves. But many began to set a mode of smaller
"coiffure," with their own hair caught in curls by a bow at the back,
and curls over each ear. Powder came into use with the smart set, and a
big bow and bag to finish the back of wig appeared, giving a smarter
appearance to the white hair.</p>
<p><SPAN id="plate20" name="plate20"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate20thumb.jpg" width-obs="399" height-obs="259" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="linktext"><SPAN href="images/plate20full.jpg">larger image</SPAN></p> <p class="caption">Plate XX.</p>
<ul>
<li>(<i>a</i>) Gold-embroidered Muslin Dress. 1795-1805.</li>
<li>(<i>b</i>) Nine Aprons. Between 1690 and <ins class="correction" title="1750 in ToC">1850</ins>.</li>
<li>(<i>c</i>) Dress of Spotted Stockinette. 1795-1808.</li>
</ul></div>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_199" id="Page_199"></SPAN></span><SPAN id="fig085" name="fig085"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig085.png" width-obs="781" height-obs="425" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 85.</span>—Bodice types. 1700-1725.</p> </div>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_200" id="Page_200"></SPAN></span>The hat, sometimes of white felt, was the same three-cornered type,
edged with feathers and banded with broad gold braids or silver lace.
The neckwear was a bind of lawn, with a long fall finished with lace.</p>
<p>The coat remained long to the knees, but took a greater fullness in the
side pleats of the skirt. Large buttons and buttonholes, 3 inches long,
are seen, with the same on the cuff, which was worn very large, often 9
inches broad, and mostly of a curved outline, and of another coloured
brocade; a tight undersleeve is also seen with these. The coat was
sometimes heavily decorated with needlework or braids of gold down the
front, pockets, seams, and cuffs. The pocket was wide and set higher in
the skirt, and the back opening of coat was decorated by several
horizontal braids to the two side pleats.</p>
<p>A long, full-skirted waistcoat, of rich materials or needlework, was at
times braided and fringed at the skirt with gold, the pockets covered
with a large flap, and five buttons fastened it or were placed as
decorations just below it. The front buttons were often reduced to four
at the waist, as it was still fashionable to show the lawn shirt.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_201" id="Page_201"></SPAN></span></p>
<p>Breeches were of the same cut as in the former reign, with five or six
side buttons at the knee, and stockings with embroidered clocks were
worn rolled over outside the breeches as before.</p>
<p>Shoes were square at the toes and not quite so long, while the heels
were still rather heavy, and red was the mode. They had a high square
top at the front instep, and buckles fastened the latchets. Muffs were
often carried by the dandies, and walking-sticks, with tassel and loop,
were slung on the arm; besides a sword, which, passing through the side
pleats and out at the back, helped to set out the coat, which was often
stiffened in the skirts. Gloves, with short gauntlets very angular or
curved in shape, were trimmed with gold fringe; the backs were also
richly embroidered with gold or silver.</p>
<h3><SPAN name="VII_EIGHTEENTH_GEORGE_I_FEMALE" id="VII_EIGHTEENTH_GEORGE_I_FEMALE"></SPAN>EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE I. FEMALE.</h3>
<p><SPAN name="Page_202" id="Page_202"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig086" name="fig086"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig086.png" width-obs="756" height-obs="387" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 86.</span>—1725-1750.</p> </div>
<p><SPAN id="plate21" name="plate21"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/plate21thumb.jpg" width-obs="389" height-obs="266" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="linktext"><SPAN href="images/plate21full.jpg">larger image</SPAN></p> <p class="caption">Plate XXI.—23 Boots and Shoes. From 1800-75.</p>
<ul>
<li>1., 2. 1800-1820.</li>
<li>3. 1810-1828.</li>
<li>5., 8., 9., 10. 1820-1830.</li>
<li>13., 16., 16<span class="smcap lowercase">A</span>. 1830-1855.</li>
<li>4., 6., 7., 12., 14., 15., 17. 1850-1865.</li>
<li>11., 18.-22. 1860-1875.</li>
</ul></div>
<p><SPAN name="Page_203" id="Page_203"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig087" name="fig087"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig087.png" width-obs="761" height-obs="450" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 87.</span>—Period 1725-1750.</p> </div>
<p><SPAN name="Page_204" id="Page_204"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig088" name="fig088"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig088.png" width-obs="767" height-obs="407" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 88.</span>—Modes, 1750-1770.</p> </div>
<p><SPAN name="Page_205" id="Page_205"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig089" name="fig089"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig089.png" width-obs="397" height-obs="526" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 89.</span>—Various Styles in Cut Back of Bodice.</p> </div>
<p>The hair was very simply gathered from the forehead and taken up to a
knot of curls at the back. Occasionally a group of curls was allowed to
fall behind, or a curl was arranged to fall on one shoulder,<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_206" id="Page_206"></SPAN></span> and
waved curls of the Queen Anne type were still seen on many people. Caps,
with long dropping points in front, sometimes tied under the chin or
with long lappets at the back, were the chief favourites, also a small
frilled cap. Shallow-crowned straw hats with various widths of brim;
hoods and capes, both short and long, are seen, besides light silks
draped from the hair to the waist, feathers, flowers, and ribbons being
worn in the head-dress. Richly embroidered aprons were worn with the
finest dresses.</p>
<p>The sack-back dress was very full, and started right across the
shoulders in two double box-pleats, which were kept trim by being sewn
flat for two to four inches down. Sleeves to the elbow were rather full,
and gathered at the shoulders, with a square cuff often decorated with a
bow in front, and a fan of lace, sometimes in several rows, fell from
beneath. Sleeves finishing in a shaped edge are occasionally seen. The
skirts were made for the very round hoop setting, and were gathered in
flat pleats on either hip. A wide pleat or two came from the shoulders
down the front sometimes as a continuation of the sack-back. These
pleats, meeting at the waist,<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_207" id="Page_207"></SPAN></span> formed a <span class="f">V</span> shape, which was filled by an
embroidered stomacher, or made of the same material, crossed by bands,
bows, or rows of lace. The flat front pleat was occasionally
embroidered, and gradually widened to the bottom of the skirt. Very
pointed toes to the shoes, and high heels, with tied or buckled
latchets, are seen, the tops of the front often being shaped into four
points.</p>
<h3><SPAN name="VII_EIGHTEENTH_GEORGE_I_MALE" id="VII_EIGHTEENTH_GEORGE_I_MALE"></SPAN>EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. GEORGE I. MALE.</h3>
<p>Long, full wigs are still seen amongst older men, but several new shapes
appear as illustrated (Fig. <SPAN href="#fig090">90</SPAN>), and the black bow and bag became very
large; a black ribbon attached to it, with a bow in front, came round
the neck. We also see the ends of the wig made into a long, tight
pigtail. Hats were of the same three-cornered shape, rather fuller in
size, and the feathered edging was still favoured. A hat of the type of
Fig. <SPAN href="#fig105">105</SPAN> was also worn; and the loose cap with a tassel was put on when
the wig was removed (see Fig. <SPAN href="#fig104">104</SPAN>).</p>
<p><SPAN name="Page_208" id="Page_208"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig090" name="fig090"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig090.png" width-obs="756" height-obs="449" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 90.</span>—Wig types, 1st half 18th century.</p> </div>
<p><SPAN name="Page_209" id="Page_209"></SPAN><SPAN id="fig091" name="fig091"></SPAN></p>
<div class="figcenter"> <ANTIMG src="images/fig091.png" width-obs="452" height-obs="695" alt="See caption" title="See caption" /> <p class="caption"><span class="smcap">Fig. 91.</span>—List of Dated Shoes and Boots.</p> <ol>
<li>1700-1750.</li>
<li>1700-1780.</li>
<li>1700-1780.</li>
<li>1700-1750.</li>
<li>1700-1760.</li>
<li>1720-1780.</li>
<li>1690-1720.</li>
<li>1700-1750.</li>
<li>1700-1740.</li>
<li>1740-1760.</li>
<li>1702-1720.</li>
<li>1730-1750.</li>
<li>1760-1800.</li>
<li>1730-1760.</li>
<li>1740-1770.</li>
<li>1770-1780.</li>
<li>1740-1780.</li>
<li>1786-1796.</li>
<li>1774-1784.</li>
<li>1775-1790.</li>
<li>Sole of shoe No. 22.</li>
<li>1776-1800.</li>
<li>1780-1790.</li>
</ol></div>
<p>The neck had the same lawn bind with a long lace ruffle, and the coat
the same<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_210" id="Page_210"></SPAN></span> full cut as in the last reign, and the large rounded cuff
was still in favour, but many varieties of size were now worn. A
vertical pocket is seen occasionally on cloth coats, also a cape and
turned-down collar are noted, while several appear with a very small
upright collar. Buttons were still worn on some coats, right down the
front; but on many coats the buttons stopped level with the pocket.</p>
<p>A short-skirted coat came in amongst the dandies towards the end of the
reign, and was stiffened out on the skirts; these mostly had a tighter
sleeve and cuff. The same decorations continued in use. Waistcoats were
much the same, and were cut to the length of the coats, or about four
inches shorter; they were buttoned higher, the lace often falling
outside.</p>
<p>Breeches were the same in cut, fastened with six buttons and a buckle at
the side of the knee. The stockings, usually decorated with clocks, were
still worn rolled outside the knee amongst smart people. The stiff high
boots or gaiters generally had a full curved piece at the top, and short
gaiters to the calf are also to be noticed.</p>
<p>The shoes were square-toed or of a<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_211" id="Page_211"></SPAN></span> roundish form, with a short or
rather high square front, and heels of various heights. Patches and
make-up were used by the fops, and swords and sticks carried, the latter
being very high, to 46 inches.</p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />