<h3><SPAN name="AtoZ_B" id="AtoZ_B"></SPAN><br/> B</h3>
<p><b>Backsteiner</b><br/>
<i>Bavaria</i></p>
<p>Resembles Limburger, but smaller, and translates Brick, from
the shape. It is aromatic and piquant and not very much like
the U.S. Brick.</p>
<p><b>Bagnes, or Fromage à la Raclette</b><br/>
<i>Switzerland</i></p>
<p>Not only hard but very hard, named from <i>racler</i>,
French for "scrape." A thick, one-half-inch slice is cut across
the whole cheese and toasted until runny. It is then scraped
off the pan it's toasted in with a flexible knife, spread on
bread and eaten like an open-faced Welsh Rabbit sandwich.</p>
<p><b>Bagozzo, Grana Bagozzo, Bresciano</b><br/>
<i>Italy</i></p>
<p>Hard; yellow; sharp. Surface often colored red. Parmesan
type.</p>
<p><b>Bakers' cheese</b></p>
<p>Skim milk, similar to cottage cheese, but softer and finer
grained. Used in making bakery products such as cheese cake,
pie, and pastries, but may also be eaten like creamed cottage
cheese.</p>
<p><!-- Page 177 --><SPAN name="Page_177" id="Page_177"></SPAN> <b>Ball</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>Made from thick sour milk in Pennsylvania in the style of
the original Pennsylvania Dutch settlers.</p>
<p><b>Ballakäse or Womelsdorf</b></p>
<p>Similar to Ball.</p>
<p><b>Balls, Dutch Red</b></p>
<p>English name for Edam.</p>
<p><b>Banbury</b><br/>
<i>England</i></p>
<p>Soft, rich cylinder about one inch thick made in the town of
Banbury, famous for its spicy, citrus-peel buns and its
equestrienne. Banbury cheese with Banbury buns made a
sensational snack in the early nineteenth century, but both are
getting scarce today.</p>
<p><b>Banick</b><br/>
<i>Armenia</i></p>
<p>White and sweet.</p>
<p><b>Banjaluka</b><br/>
<i>Bosnia</i></p>
<p>Port-Salut type from its Trappist monastery.</p>
<p><b>Banon, or les Petits Banons</b><br/>
<i>Provence, France,</i></p>
<p>Small, dried, sheep-milker, made in the foothills of the
Alps and exported through Marseilles in season, May to
November. This sprightly summer cheese is generously sprinkled
with the local brandy and festively wrapped in fresh green
leaves.</p>
<p><b>Bar cheese</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>Any saloon Cheddar, formerly served on every free-lunch
counter in the U.S. Before Prohibition, free-lunch cheese was
the backbone of America's cheese industry.</p>
<p><b>Barbacena</b><br/>
<i>Minas Geraes, Brazil</i></p>
<p>Hard, white, sometimes chalky. Named from its home city in
the leading cheese state of Brazil.</p>
<p><!-- Page 178 --><SPAN name="Page_178" id="Page_178"></SPAN> <b>Barberey, or Fromage de
Troyes</b><br/>
<i>Champagne, France</i></p>
<p>Soft, creamy and smooth, resembling Camembert, five to six
inches in diameter and 1¼ inches thick. Named from its
home town, Barberey, near Troyes, whose name it also bears.
Fresh, warm milk is coagulated by rennet in four hours. Uncut
curd then goes into a wooden mold with a perforated bottom, to
drain three hours, before being finished off in an earthenware
mold. The cheeses are salted, dried and ripened three weeks in
a cave. The season is from November to May and when made in
summer they are often sold fresh.</p>
<p><b>Barboux</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Soft.</p>
<p><b>Baronet</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>A natural product, mild and mellow.</p>
<p><b>Barron</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Soft.</p>
<p><b>Bassillac</b> <i>see</i> Bleu.</p>
<p><b>Bath</b><br/>
<i>England</i></p>
<p>Gently made, lightly salted, drained on a straw mat in the
historic resort town of Bath. Ripened in two weeks and eaten
only when covered with a refined fuzzy mold that's also
eminently edible. It is the most delicate of English-speaking
cheeses.</p>
<p><b>Battelmatt</b><br/>
<i>Switzerland, St. Gothard Alps, northern Italy, and western
Austria</i></p>
<p>An Emmentaler made small where milk is not plentiful. The
"wheel" is only sixteen inches in diameter and four inches
high, weighing forty to eighty pounds. The cooking of the curd
is done at a little lower temperature than Emmentaler, it
ripens more rapidly—in four months —
<!-- Page 179 --><SPAN name="Page_179" id="Page_179"></SPAN> and is somewhat softer, but has the same
holes and creamy though sharp, full nutty flavor.</p>
<p><b>Bauden</b> (<i>see also</i> Koppen)<br/>
<i>Germany, Austria, Bohemia and Silesia</i></p>
<p>Semisoft, sour milk, hand type, made in herders' mountain
huts in about the same way as Harzkäse, though it is
bigger. In two forms, one cup shape (called Koppen), the other
a cylinder. Strong and aromatic, whether made with or without
caraway.</p>
<p><b>Bavarian Beer cheese</b> <i>see</i> Bayrischer
Bierkäse.</p>
<p><b>Bavarian Cream</b><br/>
<i>German</i></p>
<p>Very soft; smooth and creamy. Made in the Bavarian
mountains. Especially good with sweet wines and sweet
sauces.</p>
<p><b>Bavarois à la Vanille</b> <i>see</i> Fromage
Bavarois.</p>
<p><b>Bayonne</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Bayonne.</p>
<p><b>Bayrischer Bierkäse</b><br/>
<i>Bavaria</i></p>
<p>Bavarian beer cheese from the Tyrol is made not only to eat
with beer, but to dunk in it.</p>
<p><b>Beads of cheese</b><br/>
<i>Tibet</i></p>
<p>Beads of hard cheese, two inches in diameter, are strung
like a necklace of cowrie shells or a rosary, fifty to a
hundred on a string. <i>Also see</i> Money Made of Cheese.</p>
<p><b>Beagues</b> <i>see</i> Tome de Savoie.</p>
<p><b>Bean Cake, Tao-foo, or Tofu</b><br/>
<i>China, Japan, the Orient</i></p>
<p>Soy bean cheese imported from Shanghai and other oriental
ports, and also imitated in every Chinatown around the world.
Made from the milk of beans and curdled with its own vegetable
rennet.</p>
<p><!-- Page 180 --><SPAN name="Page_180" id="Page_180"></SPAN> <b>Beaujolais</b> <i>see</i>
Chevretons.</p>
<p><b>Beaumont, or Tome de Beaumont</b><br/>
<i>Savoy, France</i></p>
<p>A more or less successful imitation of Trappist Tamie, a
trade-secret triumph of Savoy. At its best from October to
June.</p>
<p><b>Beaupré de Roybon</b><br/>
<i>Dauphiné, France</i></p>
<p>A winter specialty made from November to April.</p>
<p><b>Beckenried</b><br/>
<i>Switzerland</i></p>
<p>A good mountain cheese from goat milk.</p>
<p><b>Beer cheese</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>While our beer cheese came from Germany and the word is
merely a translation of Bierkäse, we use it chiefly for a
type of strong Limburger made mostly in Milwaukee. This fine,
aromatic cheese is considered by many as the very best to eat
while drinking beer. But in Germany Bierkäse is more apt
to be dissolved in a glass or stein of beer, much as we mix
malted powder in milk, and drunk with it, rather than
eaten.</p>
<p><b>Beer-Regis</b><br/>
<i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p>
<p>This sounds like another beer cheese, but it's only a mild
Cheddar named after its hometown in Dorsetshire.</p>
<p><b>Beist-Cheese</b><br/>
<i>Scotland</i></p>
<p>A curiosity of the old days. "The first milk after a
calving, boiled or baked to a thick consistency, the result
somewhat resembling new-made cheese, though this is clearly not
a true cheese." (MacNeill)</p>
<p><b>Belarno</b><br/>
<i>Italy</i></p>
<p>Hard; goat; creamy dessert cheese.</p>
<p><b>Belgian Cooked</b><br/>
<i>Belgium</i></p>
<p>The milk, which has been allowed to curdle spontaneously, is
skimmed and allowed to drain. When dry it is thoroughly kneaded
by hand and is allowed <!-- Page 181 --><SPAN name="Page_181" id="Page_181"></SPAN> to undergo fermentation, which takes
ordinarily from ten to fourteen days in winter and six to
eight days in summer. When the fermentation is complete,
cream and salt are added and the mixture is heated slowly
and stirred until homogeneous, when it is put into molds and
allowed to ripen for eight days longer. A cheese ordinarily
weighs about three-and-a-half pounds. It is not essentially
different from other forms of cooked cheese.</p>
<p><b>Beli Sir</b> <i>see</i> Domaci.</p>
<p><b>Bellelay, Tête de Moine, or Monk's Head</b><br/>
<i>Switzerland</i></p>
<p>Soft, buttery, semisharp spread. Sweet milk is coagulated
with rennet in twenty to thirty minutes, the curd cut fairly
fine and cooked not so firm as Emmentaler, but firmer than
Limburger. After being pressed, the cheeses are wrapped in bark
for a couple of weeks until they can stand alone. Since no eyes
are desired in the cheeses, they are ripened in a moist cellar
at a lowish temperature. They take a year to ripen and will
keep three or four years. The diameter is seven inches, the
weight nine to fifteen pounds. The monk's head after cutting is
kept wrapped in a napkin soaked in white wine and the soft,
creamy spread is scraped out to "butter" bread and snacks that
go with more white wine. Such combinations of old wine and old
cheese suggest monkish influence, which began here in the
fifteenth century with the jolly friars of the Canton of Bern.
There it is still made exclusively and not exported, for
there's never quite enough to go around.</p>
<p><!-- Page 182 --><SPAN name="Page_182" id="Page_182"></SPAN> <b>Bel Paese</b><br/>
<i>Italy</i></p>
<p><i>See under</i> <SPAN href="#Page_17">Foreign Greats, Chapter
3</SPAN>. <i>Also see</i> Mel Fino, a blend, and Bel Paese
types—French Boudanne and German Saint Stefano. The
American imitation is not nearly so good as the Italian
original.</p>
<p><b>Bel Paesino</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>A play on the Bel Paese name and fame. Weight one pound and
diminutive in every other way.</p>
<p><b>Bergkäse</b> <i>see</i> Allgäuer.</p>
<p><b>Bergquara</b><br/>
<i>Sweden</i></p>
<p>Semihard, fat, resembles Dutch Gouda. Tangy, pleasant taste.
Gets sharper with age, as they all do. Molded in cylinders of
fifteen to forty pounds. Popular in Sweden since the eighteenth
century.</p>
<p><b>Berkeley</b><br/>
<i>England</i></p>
<p>Named after its home town in Gloucester, England.</p>
<p><b>Berliner Kuhkäse</b><br/>
<i>Berlin, Germany</i></p>
<p>Cow cheese, pet-named turkey cock cheese by Berlin students.
Typical German hand cheese, soft; aromatic with caraway seeds,
and that's about the only difference between it and Alt
Kuhkäse, without caraway.</p>
<p><b>Bernarde, Formagelle Bernarde</b><br/>
<i>Italy</i></p>
<p>Cow's whole milk, to which about 10% of goat's milk is added
for flavor. Cured for two months.</p>
<p><b>Berques</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Made of skim milk.</p>
<p><b>Berry Rennet</b> <i>see</i> Withania.</p>
<p><b>Bessay, le</b><br/>
<i>Bourbonnais, France</i></p>
<p>Soft, mild, and creamy.</p>
<p><!-- Page 183 --><SPAN name="Page_183" id="Page_183"></SPAN> <b>Bexhill</b><br/>
<i>England</i></p>
<p>Cream cheeses, small, flat, round. Excellent munching.</p>
<p><b>Bierkäse</b><br/>
<i>Germany</i></p>
<p>There are several of these unique beer cheeses that are
actually dissolved in a stein of beer and drunk down with it in
the Bierstubes, notably Bayrischer, Dresdener, and
Olmützer. Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. Well imitated in
<i>echt Deutsche</i> American spots such as Milwaukee and
Hoboken.</p>
<p><b>Bifrost</b><br/>
<i>Norway</i></p>
<p>Goat; white; mildly salt. Imitated in a process spread in
4¼-ounce package.</p>
<p><b>Binn</b><br/>
<i>Wallis, Switzerland</i></p>
<p>Exceptionally fine Swiss from the great cheese canton of
Wallis.</p>
<p><b>Bitto</b><br/>
<i>Northern Italy</i></p>
<p>Hard Emmentaler type made in the Valtellina. It is really
two cheeses in one. When eaten fresh, it is smooth, sapid,
big-eyed Swiss. When eaten after two years of ripening, it is
very hard and sharp and has small eyes.</p>
<p><b>Blanc à la crème</b> <i>see</i> Fromage
Blanc.</p>
<p><b>Blanc</b> <i>see</i> Fromage Blanc I and II.</p>
<p><b>Bleu</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Brittle; blue-veined; smooth; biting.</p>
<p><b>Bleu d'Auvergne or Fromage Bleu</b><br/>
<i>Auvergne, France</i></p>
<p>Hard; sheep or mixed sheep, goat or cow; from Pontgibaud and
Laqueuille ripening caves. Similar to better-known Cantal of
the same province. Akin to Roquefort and Stilton, and to Bleu
de Laqueuille.</p>
<p><b>Bleu de Bassillac</b><br/>
<i>Limousin, France</i></p>
<p>Blue mold of Roquefort type that's prime from November to
May.</p>
<p><!-- Page 184 --><SPAN name="Page_184" id="Page_184"></SPAN> <b>Bleu de Laqueuille</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Similar to Bleu d'Auvergne, but with a different savor.
Named for its originator, Antoine Roussel-Laqueuille, who first
made it a century ago, in 1854.</p>
<p><b>Bleu de Limousin, Fromage</b><br/>
<i>Lower Limousin</i></p>
<p>Practically the same as Bleu de Bassillac, from Lower
Limousin.</p>
<p><b>Bleu de Salers</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>A variety of Bleu d'Auvergne from the same province
distinguished for its blues that are green. With the majority,
this is at its best only in the winter months, from November to
May.</p>
<p><b>Bleu, Fromage</b> <i>see</i> Bleu d'Auvergne.</p>
<p><b>Bleu-Olivet</b> <i>see</i> Olivet.</p>
<p><b>Blind</b></p>
<p>The name for cheeses lacking the usual holes of the type
they belong to, such as blind Swiss.</p>
<p><b>Block Edam</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>U.S. imitation of the classical Dutch cheese named after the
town of Edam.</p>
<p><b>Block, Smoked</b><br/>
<i>Austria</i></p>
<p>The name is self-explanatory and suggests a well-colored
meerschaum.</p>
<p><b>Bloder, or Schlicker Milch</b><br/>
<i>Switzerland</i></p>
<p>Sour-milker.</p>
<p><b>Blue Cheddar</b> <i>see</i> Cheshire-Stilton.</p>
<p><b>Blue, Danish</b> <i>see</i> Danish Blue.</p>
<p><b>Blue Dorset</b> <i>see</i> Dorset.</p>
<p><b>Blue, Jura</b> <i>see</i> Jura Bleu and Septmoncel.</p>
<p><b>Blue, and Blue with Port Links</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>One of the modern American process sausages.</p>
<p><!-- Page 185 --><SPAN name="Page_185" id="Page_185"></SPAN> <b>Blue, Minnesota</b> <i>see</i>
Minnesota.</p>
<p><b>Blue Moon</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>A process product.</p>
<p><b>Blue Vinny, Blue Vinid, Blue-veined Dorset, or Double
Dorset</b><br/>
<i>Dorsetshire, England</i></p>
<p>A unique Blue that actually isn't green-veined. Farmers make
it for private consumption, because it dries up too easily to
market. An epicurean esoteric match for Truckles No. 1 of
Wiltshire. It comes in a flat form, chalk-white, crumbly and
sharply flavored, with a "royal Blue" vein running right
through horizontally. The Vinny mold, from which it was named,
is different from all other cheese molds and has a different
action.</p>
<p><b>Bocconi Geganti</b><br/>
<i>Italy</i></p>
<p>Sharp and smoky specialty.</p>
<p><b>Bocconi Provoloni</b> <i>see</i> Provolone.</p>
<p><b>Boîte</b> <i>see</i> Fromage de Boîte.</p>
<p><b>Bombay</b><br/>
<i>India</i></p>
<p>Hard; goat; dry; sharp. Good to crunch with a Bombay Duck in
place of a cracker.</p>
<p><b>Bondes</b> <i>see</i> Bondon de Neufchâtel.</p>
<p><b>Bondon de Neufchâtel, or Bondes</b><br/>
<i>Normandy, France</i></p>
<p>Nicknamed <i>Bonde à tout bien</i>, from resemblance
to the bung in a barrel of Neuchâtel wine. Soft, small
loaf rolls, fresh and mild. Similar to Gournay, but sweeter
because of 2% added sugar.</p>
<p><b>Bondon de Rouen</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>A fresh Neufchâtel, similar to Petit Suisse, but
slightly salted, to last up to ten days.</p>
<p><!-- Page 186 --><SPAN name="Page_186" id="Page_186"></SPAN> <b>Bondost</b><br/>
<i>Sweden</i></p>
<p>When caraway seed is added this is called Kommenost, spelled
Kuminost in Norway.</p>
<p><b>Bond Ost</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>Imitation of Scandinavian cheese, with small production in
Wisconsin.</p>
<p><b>Bon Larron</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Romantically named "the penitent thief."</p>
<p><b>Borden's</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>A full line of processed and naturals, of which Liederkranz
is the leader.</p>
<p><b>Borelli</b><br/>
<i>Italy</i></p>
<p>A small water-buffalo cheese.</p>
<p><b>Bossons Maceres</b><br/>
<i>Provence, France</i></p>
<p>A winter product, December, January, February and March
only.</p>
<p><b>Boudanne</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Whole or skimmed cow's milk, ripens in two to three
months.</p>
<p><b>Boudes, Boudon</b><br/>
<i>Normandy, France</i></p>
<p>Soft, fresh, smooth, creamy, mild child of the
Neufchâtel family.</p>
<p><b>Bougon Lamothe</b> <i>see</i> Lamothe.</p>
<p><b>Bouillé, la</b><br/>
<i>Normandy France</i></p>
<p>One of this most prolific province's thirty different
notables. In season October to May.</p>
<p><b>Boule de Lille</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Name given to Belgian Oude Kaas by the French who enjoy
it.</p>
<p><b>Boulette d'Avesnes</b>, or <b>Boulette de
Cambrai</b><br/>
<i>Flanders, France</i></p>
<p>Made from November to May, eaten all year.</p>
<p><b>Bourgain</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Type of fresh Neufchâtel made in France. Perishable
and consumed locally.</p>
<p><!-- Page 187 --><SPAN name="Page_187" id="Page_187"></SPAN> <b>Bourgognes</b> <i>see</i> Petits
Bourgognes.</p>
<p><b>Box</b><br/>
<i>Württemberg, Germany</i></p>
<p>Similar to U.S. Brick. It comes in two styles; firm, and
soft:</p>
<p>I. Also known as Schachtelkäse, Boxed Cheese; and
Hohenheim, where it is made. A rather unimportant variety. Made
in a copper kettle, with partially skim milk, colored with
saffron and spiked with caraway, a handful to every two hundred
pounds. Salted and ripened for three months and shipped in
wooden boxes.</p>
<p>II. Also known by names of localities where made: Hohenburg,
Mondess and Weihenstephan. Made of whole milk. Mild but
piquant.</p>
<p><b>Bra No. I</b><br/>
<i>Piedmont, Italy</i></p>
<p>Hard, round form, twelve inches in diameter, three inches
high, weight twelve pounds. A somewhat romantic cheese, made by
nomads who wander with their herds from pasture to pasture in
the region of Bra.</p>
<p><b>Bra No. II</b><br/>
<i>Turin and Cuneo, Italy</i></p>
<p>Soft, creamy, small, round and mild although cured in
brine.</p>
<p><b>Brand or Brandkäse</b><br/>
<i>Germany</i></p>
<p>Soft, sour-milk hand cheese, weighing one-third of a pound.
The curd is cooked at a high temperature, then salted and set
to ferment for a day. Butter is then mixed into it before
pressing into small bricks. After drying it is put in used beer
kegs to ripen and is frequently moistened with beer while
curing.</p>
<p><b>Brandy</b> <i>see</i> Caledonian, Cream.</p>
<p><!-- Page 188 --><SPAN name="Page_188" id="Page_188"></SPAN> <b>Branja de Brailia</b><br/>
<i>Rumania</i></p>
<p>Hard; sheep; extra salty because always kept in brine.</p>
<p><b>Branja de Cosulet</b><br/>
<i>Rumania</i></p>
<p>Described by Richard Wyndham in <i>Wine and Food</i>
(Winter, 1937): A creamy sheep's cheese which is encased in
pine bark. My only criticism of this most excellent cheese is
that the center must always remain a gastronomical second best.
It is no more interesting than a good English Cheddar, while
the outer crust has a scented, resinous flavor which must be
unique among cheeses.</p>
<p><b>Bratkäse</b><br/>
<i>Switzerland</i></p>
<p>Strong; specially made to roast in slices over coal. Fine,
grilled on toast.</p>
<p><b>Breakfast, Frühstück, Lunch, Delikat, and other
names</b><br/>
<i>Germany</i></p>
<p>Soft and delicate, but with a strong tang. Small round, for
spreading. Lauterbach is a well-known breakfast cheese in
Germany, while in Switzerland Emmentaler is eaten at all three
meals.</p>
<p><b>Breakstone</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>Like Borden and other leading American cheesemongers and
manufacturers, Breakstone offer a full line, of which their
cream cheese is an American product to be proud of.</p>
<p><b>Brésegaut</b><br/>
<i>Savoy, France</i></p>
<p>Soft, white.</p>
<p><b>Breslau</b><br/>
<i>Germany</i></p>
<p>A proud Prussian dessert cheese.</p>
<p><b>Bressans</b> <i>see</i> les Petits.</p>
<p><b>Bresse</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Lightly cooked.</p>
<p><b>Bretagne</b> <i>see</i> Montauban.</p>
<p><!-- Page 189 --><SPAN name="Page_189" id="Page_189"></SPAN> <b>Brevine</b><br/>
<i>Switzerland</i></p>
<p>Emmentaler type.</p>
<p><b>Briançon</b> <i>see</i> Alpin.</p>
<p><b>Brick</b> <i>see</i> <SPAN href="#Page_37">Chapter
4</SPAN>.</p>
<p><b>Brickbat</b><br/>
<i>Wiltshire, England</i></p>
<p>A traditional Wiltshire product since early in the
eighteenth century. Made with fresh milk and some cream, to
ripen for one year before "it's fit to eat." The French call it
Briqueton.</p>
<p><b>Bricotta</b><br/>
<i>Corsica</i></p>
<p>Semisoft, sour sheep, sometimes mixed with sugar and rum and
made into small luscious cakes.</p>
<p><b>Brie</b> <i>see</i> <SPAN href="#Page_17">Chapter 3</SPAN>;
<i>also see</i> Cendré and Coulommiers.</p>
<p><b>Brie Façon</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>The name of imitation Brie or Brie type made in all parts of
France. Often it is dry, chalky, and far inferior to the finest
Brie <i>véritable</i> that is still made best in its
original home, formerly called La Brie, now Seine et Marne, or
Ile-de-France.</p>
<p><i>see</i> Nivernais Decize, Le Mont d'Or, and
Ile-de-France.</p>
<p><b>Brie de Meaux</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>This genuine Brie from the Meaux region has an excellent
reputation for high quality. It is made only from November to
May.</p>
<p><b>Brie de Melun</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>This Brie <i>véritable</i> is made not only in the
seasonal months, from November to May, but practically all the
year around. It is not always prime. Summer Brie, called
Maigre, is notably poor and thin.
<!-- Page 190 --><SPAN name="Page_190" id="Page_190"></SPAN>Spring Brie is merely Migras, half-fat, as
against the fat autumn Gras that ripens until May.</p>
<p><b>Brillat-Savarin</b><br/>
<i>Normandy, France</i></p>
<p>Soft, and available all year. Although the author of
<i>Physiologie du Goût</i> was not noted as a caseophile
and wrote little on the subject beyond <i>Le Fondue</i>
(<i>see</i> <SPAN href="#Page_84">Chapter 6</SPAN>), this savory
Normandy produce is named in his everlasting praise.</p>
<p><b>Brina Dubreala</b><br/>
<i>Rumania</i></p>
<p>Semisoft, sheep, done in brine.</p>
<p><b>Brindza</b><br/>
<i>U.S.A.</i></p>
<p>Our imitation of this creamy sort of fresh, white Roquefort
is as popular in foreign colonies in America as back in its
Hungarian and Greek homelands. On New York's East Side several
stores advertise "Brindza fresh daily," with an extra "d"
crowded into the original Brinza.</p>
<p><b>Brine</b> <i>see</i> Italian Bra, Caucasian Ekiwani,
Brina Dubreala, Briney.</p>
<p><b>Briney, or Brined</b><br/>
<i>Syria</i></p>
<p>Semisoft, salty, sharp. So-called from being processed in
brine. Turkish Tullum Penney is of the same salt-soaked
type.</p>
<p><b>Brinza, or Brinsen</b><br/>
<i>Hungary, Rumania, Carpathian Mountains</i></p>
<p>Goes by many local names: Altsohl, Klencz, Landoch,
Liptauer, Neusohl, Siebenburgen and Zips. Soft, sheep milk or
sheep and goat; crumbly, sharp and biting, but creamy. Made in
small lots and cured in a tub with beech shavings. Ftinoporino
is its opposite number in Macedonia.</p>
<p><b>Brioler</b> <i>see</i> Westphalia.</p>
<p><!-- Page 191 --><SPAN name="Page_191" id="Page_191"></SPAN> <b>Briquebec</b> <i>see</i>
Providence</p>
<p><b>Briqueton</b><br/>
<i>England</i></p>
<p>The French name for English Wiltshire Brickbat, one of the
very few cheeses imported into France. Known in France in the
eighteenth century, it may have influenced the making of
Trappist Port-Salut at the Bricquebec Monastery in Manche.</p>
<p><b>Brittle</b> <i>see</i> Greek Cashera, Italian Ricotta,
Turkish Rarush Durmar, and U.S. Hopi.</p>
<p><b>Brizecon</b><br/>
<i>Savoy, France</i></p>
<p>Imitation Reblochon made in the same Savoy province.</p>
<p><b>Broccio, or le Brocconis</b><br/>
<i>Corsica, France</i></p>
<p>Soft, sour sheep milk or goat, like Bricotta and a first
cousin to Italian Chiavari. Cream white, slightly salty; eaten
fresh in Paris, where it is as popular as on its home island.
Sometimes salted and half-dried, or made into little cakes with
rum and sugar. Made and eaten all year.</p>
<p><b>Broodkaas</b><br/>
<i>Holland</i></p>
<p>Hard, flat, nutty.</p>
<p><b>Brousses de la Vézubie, les</b><br/>
<i>Nice, France</i></p>
<p>Small; sheep; long narrow bar shape, served either with
powdered sugar or salt, pepper and chopped chives. Made in
Vézubie.</p>
<p><b>Brussels or Bruxelles</b><br/>
<i>Belgium</i></p>
<p>Soft, washed skim milk, fermented, semisharp, from Louvain
and Hal districts.</p>
<p><b>Budapest</b><br/>
<i>Hungary</i></p>
<p>Soft, fresh, creamy and mellow, a favorite at home in
Budapest and abroad in Vienna.</p>
<p><!-- Page 192 --><SPAN name="Page_192" id="Page_192"></SPAN> <b>Buderich</b><br/>
<i>Germany</i></p>
<p>A specialty in Dusseldorf.</p>
<p><b>Bulle</b><br/>
<i>Switzerland</i></p>
<p>A Swiss-Gruyère.</p>
<p><b>Bundost</b><br/>
<i>Sweden</i></p>
<p>Semihard; mellow; tangy.</p>
<p><b>Burgundy</b><br/>
<i>France</i></p>
<p>Named after the province, not the wine, but they go
wonderfully together.</p>
<p><b>Bushman</b><br/>
<i>Australia</i></p>
<p>Semihard; yellow; tangy.</p>
<p><b>Butter and Cheese</b> <i>see</i>
<SPAN href="#Page_111">Chapter 8</SPAN>.</p>
<p><b>"Butter," Serbian</b> <i>see</i> Kajmar.</p>
<p><b>Buttermilk</b><br/>
<i>U.S. & Europe</i></p>
<p>Resembles cottage cheese, but of finer grain.</p>
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