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Complete Book of Cheese, The


G

Gaiskäsli
Germany and Switzerland

A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor.

Gammelost
Norway

Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his Encyclopedia of Food Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored with cheese."

Garda
Italy

Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind.

Garden
U.S.A.

Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in.

Garlic
U.S.A.

A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic.

Garlic-onion Link
U.S.A.

A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, nobody knows why.

Gascony, Fromage de see Castillon.

Gautrias
Mayenne, France

Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut.

Gavot
Hautes-Alpes, France

A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk.

Geheimrath
Netherlands

A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight

Gérardmer, de see Récollet

German-American adopted types

Bierkäse Delikat Grinnen Hand Harzkäse Kümmelkäse Koppen Lager Liederkranz Mein Kaese Münster Old Heidelberg Schafkäse (sheep) Silesian Stein Tilsit Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgäuer)

Géromé, la
Vosges, France

Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April.

Gervais
Ile-de-France, France

Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey.

Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner see Holstein Health.

Getmesost
Sweden

Soft; goat; whey; sweet.

Gex
Pays de Gex, France

Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from November to May.

Gex Marbré
France

A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues family, that are green in spite of their name.

Gien see Fromage à la Crème.

Gislev
Scandinavia

Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk.

Gjetost
Norway

A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made with goat's milk.

Glavis
Switzerland

The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (See.)

Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse
Germany

Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that includes Olmützer Quargel.

Cloire des Montagnes see Damen.

3/Dec/2004 15:38
Gloucestershire, England

There are two types:
I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six
months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of
flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure
its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply
to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you
then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the
praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated."
A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy, by André L. Simon.
II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester
ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone"
brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and
"as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is
from an old vintage."

Glumse
West Prussia, Germany

A common, undistinguished cottage cheese.

Glux
Nivernais, France

Season, all year.

Goat
France

A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always notable or noble.

Gold-N-Rich
U.S.A.

Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red rind.

Gomost
Norway

Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a butter-like consistency. (See Mysost.)

Gorgonzola
Italy

Besides the standard type exported to us (See Chapter 3.) there is White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too.

Gouda see Chapter 3.

Gouda, Kosher
Holland

The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare it.

Goya
Corrientes, Argentine

Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy.

It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of which excel the originals.

Gournay
Seine, France

Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about ¼ pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about ¾ of an inch thick and four inches long.

Grana
Italy

Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that the curd is cut into.

Grana Lombardo
Lombardy

The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in Lombardy.

Grana Reggiano
Reggio, Italy

A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its own—Regianito.

Grande Bornand, la
Switzerland

A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.

Granular curd see Stirred curd.

Gras, or Velvet Kaas
Holland

Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", Tête de Maure, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of Fromage de Gras in France, called Tête de Mort, "Death's Head". Gras is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and sold from November to May. (See Brie.)

Gratairon
France

Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made.

Graubünden
Switzerland

A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.

Green Bay
U.S.A.

Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the Limburger county.

Grey
Germany and Austrian Tyrol

Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. It has a very pleasant taste.

Gruyère see Chapter 3.

Güssing, or Land-l-kas
Austria

Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds.


H

Habas see Caille.

Hablé Crème Chantilly
Ösmo, Sweden

Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the finest French Brie or Camembert. See Chapter 3.

Hand see Chapter 3.

Hard
Puerto Rico

Dry; tangy.

Harzkäse, Harz
Harz Mountains, Germany

Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying from 2½ inches by 1½ down to ¼ by 1½. Packed in little boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway.

Harzé
Belgium

Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at Harzé.

Hasandach
Turkey

Bland; sweet.

Hauskäse.
Germany

Limburger type. Disk-shaped.

Haute Marne
France

Soft; square.

Hay, or Fromage au Foin
Seine, France

A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay.

Hazebrook

There are two kinds:

I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and
pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters.
II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and
marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy.

Head

Four cheeses are called Head:

The French Death's Head.
Swiss Monk's Head.
Dutch Cat's Head.
Moor's Head.

There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only a cheese by discourtesy.

Health see Holstein.

Herbesthal
Germany

Named from a valley full of rich herbes for grazing.

Herkimer
U.S.A.

Cheddar type; nearly white. See Chapter 4.

Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House
West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden

Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland.

Herrgårdstyp see Hushållsost.

Hervé
Belgium

Soft; made in cubes and peppered with herbes such as tarragon, parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk.

Hickory Smoked
U.S.A.

Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese.

Hohenburg see Box No. II.

Hohenheim
Germany

Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.)

Hoi Poi
China

Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars.

Hoja see Queso de.

Hollander
North Germany

Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein.

Holstein Dairy see Leather.

Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner
Germany

Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping.

Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkäse
Germany

Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into half-pound molds and cooled.

Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkäse
Germany

Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all.

Hop, Hopfen
Germany

Small, one inch by 2½ inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin.

Hopi
U.S.A.

Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home.

Horner's
England

An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce originated.

Horse Cheese

Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it.

Hum
Holland

Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you say "Ho-hum."

Hushållsost, Household Cheese
Sweden

Popular in three types: Popular in three types:
Herrgårdstyp—Farmhouse
Västgötatyp—Westgotland
Sveciatyp—Swedish

Hvid Gjetost
Norway

A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of Scandinavia.


I

Icelandic

In Letters from Iceland, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost.

Ihlefield
Mecklenburg, Germany

A hand cheese.

Ilha, Queijo de
Azores

Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, Ilha, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as Pico, Peak, and Terceiro, Third, are sometimes added to their cheeses.

Impérial, Ancien see Ancien.

Imperial Club
Canada

Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien Impérial.

Incanestrato
Sicily, Italy

Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" from fifteen to twenty pounds. See Majocchino, a kind made with the three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides.

Irish Cheeses

Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc.

Isigny
France

Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. (See.) Cream cheese. The American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be closer to Limburger. (See Chapter 2.)

In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as any cream can.

Island of Orléans
Canada

This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orléans Island in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name "refined."


J

Jack see Monterey.

Jochberg
Tyrol, Germany

Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on.

Jonchée
Santonge, France

A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, uniquely, black coffee.

Josephine
Silesia, Germany

Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical packages.

Journiac see Chapter 3.

Julost
Sweden.

Semihard; tangy.

Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel
France

Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy.


K

Kaas, Oude
Belgium

Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille.

Kackavalj
Yugoslavia

Same as Italian Caciocavallo.

Kaiser-käse
Germany

This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang.

Kajmar, or Serbian Butter
Serbia and Turkey

Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort.

Kamembert
Yugoslavia

Imitation Camembert.

Karaghi La-La
Turkey

Nutty and tangy.

Kareish
Egypt

A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati.

Karut
India

Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning.

Karvi
Norway

Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages.

Kash
Rumania

Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese.

Kashcavallo, Caskcaval
Greece

A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo.

Kasher, or Caher, Penner
Turkey

Hard; white; sharp.

Kash Kwan
Bulgaria and the Balkans

An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big American cities.

Kaskaval
Rumania

Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A.

Kasseri
Greece

Hard; ewe's milk, usually.

Katschkawalj
Serbia

Just another version of the international Caciocavallo.

Katzenkopf, Cat's Head
Holland

Another name for Edam. (See Chapter 3.)

Kaukauna Club
U.S.A.

Widely advertised processed cheese food.

Kauna
Lithuania

A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around.

Kefalotir, Kefalotyi
Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria

Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or Kefalo.

Keg-ripened
see Brand.

King Christian IX
Denmark

Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody.

Kingdom Farm
U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y. The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not available elsewhere.

Kirgischerkäse see Krutt.

Kjarsgaard
Denmark

Hard; skim; sharp; tangy.

Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese
Germany

A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon Kaffee-klatsches in the Konditories.

Kloster, Kloster Käse
Bavaria

Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day.

Kochenkäse
Luxembourg

Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended for diets.

Koch Käse
Germany

This translates "cooked cheese."

Kochtounkäse
Belgium

Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor.

Kolos-monostor
Rumania

Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8½ by five by three inches. One of those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania.

Kolosvarer
Rumania

A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses.

Komijnekaas, Komynekass
North Holland

Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them.

Konigskäse
Germany

A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese.

Kopanisti
Greece

Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor.

Koppen, Cup, or Bauden
Germany

Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages.

Korestin
Russia

Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine.

Kosher

This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons. (See Gouda, Kosher.)

Krauterkäse
Brazil

Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss Krauterkäse even though it is processed.

Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese
Switzerland

Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse.

Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse
Asian Steppes

A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun.

Kühbacher
Bavaria

Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, where it is made.

Kuminost
Norway

Semihard; caraway-seeded.

Kumminost
Sweden

This is Bondost with caraway added.

Kummin Ost
Wisconsin, U.S.A.

Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their ost.

Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas
Holland

Caraway-seeded and named.

Kümmelkäse
Germany and U.S.A.

Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to imported kümmel liqueur.


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