Germany and Switzerland
A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor.
Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his Encyclopedia of Food Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored with cheese."
Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind.
Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in.
A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic.
A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, nobody knows why.
Gascony, Fromage de see Castillon.
Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut.
A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk.
A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight
Gérardmer, de see Récollet
German-American adopted types
Bierkäse Delikat Grinnen Hand Harzkäse Kümmelkäse Koppen Lager Liederkranz Mein Kaese Münster Old Heidelberg Schafkäse (sheep) Silesian Stein Tilsit Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgäuer)
Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April.
Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey.
Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner see Holstein Health.
Soft; goat; whey; sweet.
Pays de Gex, France
Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from November to May.
A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues family, that are green in spite of their name.
Gien see Fromage à la Crème.
Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk.
A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made with goat's milk.
The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (See.)
Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse
Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that includes Olmützer Quargel.
Cloire des Montagnes see Damen.
There are two types:
I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six
months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of
flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure
its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply
to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you
then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the
praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated."
A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy, by André L. Simon.
II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester
ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone"
brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and
"as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is
from an old vintage."
West Prussia, Germany
A common, undistinguished cottage cheese.
Season, all year.
A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always notable or noble.
Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red rind.
Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a butter-like consistency. (See Mysost.)
Besides the standard type exported to us (See Chapter 3.) there is White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too.
Gouda see Chapter 3.
The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare it.
Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy.
It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of which excel the originals.
Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about ¼ pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about ¾ of an inch thick and four inches long.
Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that the curd is cut into.
The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in Lombardy.
A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its own—Regianito.
Grande Bornand, la
A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.
Granular curd see Stirred curd.
Gras, or Velvet Kaas
Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", Tête de Maure, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of Fromage de Gras in France, called Tête de Mort, "Death's Head". Gras is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and sold from November to May. (See Brie.)
Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made.
A luscious half-dried sheep's milker.
Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the Limburger county.
Germany and Austrian Tyrol
Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. It has a very pleasant taste.
Gruyère see Chapter 3.
Güssing, or Land-l-kas
Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds.
Habas see Caille.
Hablé Crème Chantilly
Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the finest French Brie or Camembert. See Chapter 3.
Hand see Chapter 3.
Harz Mountains, Germany
Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying from 2½ inches by 1½ down to ¼ by 1½. Packed in little boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway.
Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at Harzé.
Limburger type. Disk-shaped.
Hay, or Fromage au Foin
A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay.
There are two kinds:
I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort
type with white wine, juniper, salt and
pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters.
II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and
marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy.
Four cheeses are called Head:
The French Death's Head.
Swiss Monk's Head.
Dutch Cat's Head.
There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only a cheese by discourtesy.
Health see Holstein.
Named from a valley full of rich herbes for grazing.
Cheddar type; nearly white. See Chapter 4.
Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House
West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden
Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland.
Herrgårdstyp see Hushållsost.
Soft; made in cubes and peppered with herbes such as tarragon, parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk.
Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese.
Hohenburg see Box No. II.
Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.)
Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars.
Hoja see Queso de.
Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein.
Holstein Dairy see Leather.
Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner
Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping.
Holstein Health, or Holsteiner
Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into half-pound molds and cooled.
Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein
Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all.
Small, one inch by 2½ inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin.
Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home.
An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce originated.
Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it.
Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you say "Ho-hum."
Hushållsost, Household Cheese
Popular in three types: Popular in three types:
A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of Scandinavia.
In Letters from Iceland, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost.
A hand cheese.
Ilha, Queijo de
Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, Ilha, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as Pico, Peak, and Terceiro, Third, are sometimes added to their cheeses.
Impérial, Ancien see Ancien.
Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien Impérial.
Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" from fifteen to twenty pounds. See Majocchino, a kind made with the three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides.
Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc.
Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. (See.) Cream cheese. The American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be closer to Limburger. (See Chapter 2.)
In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as any cream can.
Island of Orléans
This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orléans Island in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name "refined."
Jack see Monterey.
Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on.
A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, uniquely, black coffee.
Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical packages.
Journiac see Chapter 3.
Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel
Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy.
Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille.
Same as Italian Caciocavallo.
This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang.
Kajmar, or Serbian Butter
Serbia and Turkey
Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort.
Nutty and tangy.
A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati.
Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning.
Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages.
Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese.
A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo.
Kasher, or Caher, Penner
Hard; white; sharp.
Bulgaria and the Balkans
An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big American cities.
Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A.
Hard; ewe's milk, usually.
Just another version of the international Caciocavallo.
Katzenkopf, Cat's Head
Another name for Edam. (See Chapter 3.)
Widely advertised processed cheese food.
A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around.
Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria
Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or Kefalo.
King Christian IX
Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody.
U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y. The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not available elsewhere.
Kirgischerkäse see Krutt.
Hard; skim; sharp; tangy.
Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese
A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon Kaffee-klatsches in the Konditories.
Kloster, Kloster Käse
Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day.
Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended for diets.
This translates "cooked cheese."
Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor.
Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8½ by five by three inches. One of those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania.
A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses.
Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them.
A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese.
Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor.
Koppen, Cup, or Bauden
Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages.
Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine.
This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons. (See Gouda, Kosher.)
Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss Krauterkäse even though it is processed.
Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese
Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse.
Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse
A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun.
Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, where it is made.
This is Bondost with caraway added.
Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their ost.
Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas
Caraway-seeded and named.
Germany and U.S.A.
Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to imported kümmel liqueur.