Taffel, Table, Taffelost
A Danish brand name for an ordinary slicing cheese.
Made in the rich province of Tucuman.
Taiviers, les Petits Fromages de
Very small and tasty goat cheese.
Soft, whole-milk, Stracchino type.
Port-Salut made by Trappist monks at Savoy from their method that is more or less a trade secret. Tome de Beaumont is an imitation produced not far away.
Tao-foo or Tofu
China, Japan, the Orient
Soybean curd or cheese made from the "milk" of soybeans. The beans are ground and steeped, made into a paste that's boiled so the starch dissolves with the casein. After being strained off, the "milk" is coagulated with a solution of gypsum. This is then handled in the same way as animal milk in making ordinary cow-milk cheeses. After being salted and pressed in molds it is ready to be warmed up and added to soups and cooked dishes, as well as being eaten as is.
Similar to Brinza and sometimes called Branza de Bralia. Made of sheep's milk and rapidly ripened, so it is ready to eat in ten days.
Term used to designate Parmesan-type cheese made in winter.
Tête à Tête, Tête de Maure,
Round in shape. French name for Dutch Edam.
Tête de Moine, Monk's Head
A soft "head" weighing ten to twenty pounds. Creamy, tasty, summer Swiss, imitated in Jura, France, and also called Bellelay.
Tête de Mort see Fromage Gras for this death's head.
"The Tempting cheese of Fyvie"
Something on the order of Eve's apple, according to the Scottish rhyme that exposes it:
Sheep's milk cheese of three or four pounds made on the island of Texel, off the coast of the Netherlands.
Resembles Camembert and Vendôme.
A fine Emmentaler.
An undistinguished Cheddar named for the three counties that make most of the Irish cheese.
A hand cheese spiked with caraway.
Soft and mellow, with the contrasting pungence of thyme. Two other herbal cheeses are flavored with thyme—both French: Fromage Fort II, Hazebrook II.
The small, hard, grating cheeses named after the country Tibet, are of sheep's milk, in cubes about two inches on all sides, with holes to string them through the middle, fifty to a hundred on each string. They suggest Chinese strings of cash and doubtless served as currency, in the same way as Chinese cheese money. (See under Money.)
Hard; sheep or goat; blue-veined; sharp; tangy; from Tigne Valley in Savoy. Similar to Gex, Sassenage and Septmoncel.
Hard; sharp; biting; named from the border race-track town.
Tillamook see Chapter 4.
Tilsit, or Tilsiter Käse, also called
This classical variety of East Prussia is similar to American Brick. Made of whole milk, with many small holes that give it an open texture, as in Port-Salut, which it also resembles, although it is stronger and coarser.
Old Tilsiter is something special in aromatic tang, and attempts to imitate it are made around the world. One of them, Ovár, is such a good copy it is called Hungarian Tilsit. There are American, Danish, and Canadian—even Swiss—imitations.
The genuine Tilsit has been well described as "forthright in flavor; a good snack cheese, but not suitable for elegant post-prandial dallying."
A Montenegrin imitation Tilsiter.
Tome de Beaumont
Whole cow's milk.
Also called Fourme, Cantal, or Fromage de Cantal. A kind of Cheddar that comes from Ambert, Aubrac, Aurillac, Grand-Murol, Rôche, Salers, etc.
Tome de Chèvre
Soft goat cheese.
Tome de Savoie
Soft paste; goat or cow. Others in the same category are: Tome des Beagues, Tome au Fenouil, Tome Doudane.
Imitation of French Gruyère in 2½ ounce packages.
Topf or Topfkäse
A cooked cheese to which Pennsylvania pot is similar. Sour skim milk cheese, eaten fresh and sold in packages of one ounce. When cured it is flaky.
Toscano, or Pecorino Toscano
Sheep's milk cheese like Romano but softer, and therefore used as a table cheese.
A smaller edition of Toscano.
Skim milk often curdled with Korourou leaves. The soft curd is then dipped out onto mats like pancake batter and sun dried for ten days or placed by a fire for six, with frequent turning. Very hard and dry and never salted. Made from Lake Tchad to the Barbary States by Berber tribes.
Besides naming this Berry cheese, Tour Eiffel serves as a picturesque label and trademark for a brand of Camembert.
Similar to Feta.
Small goat cheese.
Tourne de chèvre
Trappe, la, or Oka
Truly fine Port-Salut named for the Trappist order and its Canadian monastery.
Trappist see Chapter 3.
Trappist Port-Salut imitation.
Swiss or Gruyère aged in Swiss Neuchâtel wine and so named for the grape.
Albania, Russia, Yugoslavia
Soft, sheep whole milk with a little goat sometimes and occasionally skim milk. More than a century of success in Europe, Turkey and adjacent lands where it is also known as Arnauten, Arnautski Sir and Vlasic.
When fresh it is almost white and has a mild, pleasing taste. It ripens to a stronger flavor in from two weeks to several months, and is not so good if holes should develop in it. The pure sheep-milk type when aged is characteristically oily and sharp.
Traz os Montes
Soft; sheep; oily; rich; sapid. For city turophiles nostalgically named "From the Mountains." All sheep cheese is oily, some of it a bit muttony, but none of it at all tallowy.
Small, braided cheese, eaten fresh.
Normandy cheese in season all the year around.
Made and consumed in Touraine from May to January.
Soft, fresh, whole milk. Pont l'Evêque type of superior quality.
Troyes, Fromage de see Barberey and Ervy.
No. I: Wiltshire, England. Skimmed milk; blue-veined variety like Blue Vinny. The quaint word is the same as used in truckle or trundle bed. On Shrove Monday Wiltshire kids went from door to door singing for a handout:
No. II: Local name in the West of England for a full cream Cheddar put up in loaves.
Also known as Leaf, Telpanir and Zwirn. Skim milk of either sheep or cows. Made into cakes and packed in skins in a land where wine is drunk from skin canteens, often with Tschil.
Tuile de Flandre
A type of Marolles.
Salty from being soaked in brine.
Tuna, Prickly Pear
Not an animal milk cheese, but a vegetable one, made by boiling and straining the pulp of the cactuslike prickly pear fruit to cheeselike consistency. It is chocolate-color and sharp, piquantly pleasant when hard and dry. It is sometimes enriched with nuts, spices and/or flowers. It will keep for a very long time and has been a dessert or confection in Mexico for centuries.
Semihard; cream color; a sort of Tuscany Parmesan.
Semisoft sheep skim-milk cheese with small holes and a sharp taste. Pressed in forms two by ten to twelve inches in diameter. Similar to Brick or Limburger.
Outstanding American Cheddar marketed by Joannes Brothers, Green Bay, Wisconsin.
Semihard sour milk farm (not factory) made. It is used in the cheese bread called Notruschki.
Made in Copenhagen from pasteurized skim milk.
A typical Tyrolean hand cheese.
The opposite number of Tzigen, just below.
Semisoft; skimmed sheep, goat or cow milk. White; sharp and salty; originated in Dalmatia.
Creamy; sweet; mild.
Hard; brittle; white; tangy. Made in the Canton of Uri. Eight by eight to twelve inches, weight twenty to forty pounds.
Mild flavored. Cooked curd.
Urt, Fromage d'
Soft Port-Salut type of the Basque country.
France and Switzerland
I. Vacherin à la Main. Savoy, France. Firm, leathery rind, soft interior like Brie or Camembert; round, five to six by twelve inches in diameter. Made in summer to eat in winter. When fully ripe it is almost a cold version of the great dish called Fondue. Inside the hard-rind container is a velvety, spicy, aromatic cream, more runny than Brie, so it can be eaten with a spoon, dunked in, or spread on bread. The local name is Tome de Montague.
II. Vacherin Fondu, or Spiced Fondu. Switzerland. Although called Fondu from being melted, the No. I Vacherin comes much closer to our conception of the dish Fondue, which we spell with an "e."
Vacherin No. II might be called a re-cooked and spiced Emmentaler, for the original cheese is made, and ripened about the same as the Swiss classic and is afterward melted, spiced and reformed into Vacherin.
Val-d'Andorre, Fromage du
Hard, dried, small Alpine goat cheese.
Valençay, or Fromage de Valençay
Soft; cream; goat milk; similar to Saint-Maure. In season from May to December. This was a favorite with Francis I.
One-ounce wedges, six to a box, labeled pasteurized process Swiss cheese, made by the Cooperative Butter Export Association, Helsinki, Finland, to sell to North Americans to help them forget what real cheese is.
Crumbly and sharp.
Alpine. Piquant, strong in flavor and smell.
Varennes, Fromage de
Soft, fine, strong variety from Upper Burgundy.
Slow-maturing. One to one-and-a-half years in ripening to a pungent, almost bitter taste.
West Gothland, Sweden
Semihard; sweet and nutty. Takes a half year to mature. Weight twenty to thirty pounds.
Vendôme, Fromage de
Hard; sheep; round and flat; like la Cendrée in being ripened under ashes. There is also a soft Vendôme sold mostly in Paris.
Parmesan type, similar to Asiago. Usually sharp.
Winter cheese of Béarn in season October to May.
The brand name of a cream cheese made in Guilford.
Ile-de-France winter specialty in season from November to May.
Soft, one-pound squares made in Haute-Marne.
Viry-vory, or Vary
Fresh cream cheese.
Sheep milk usually curdled with wild artichoke, Cynara Scolymus. Strong grating and seasoning type of the Parmesan-Romano-Pecorino family.
Ewe's milk; suitable for grating.
Soft associate of Pont l'Evêque and Limburger.
The name means "full cream" cheese and that—according to law—has 45% fat in the dry product (See Gras.)
Hard; greasy; semicircular form of different sizes, with extra-strong flavor and odor. The name indicates that it is made of sour milk.
Fresh cream variety like Neufchâtel and Petit Suisse.
Semihard; fine nutty flavor; named for the capital city of Poland.
Similar to Cheddar. The curd is washed to remove acidity and any abnormal flavors.
A mild, full cream loaf of Danish blue that can be very good if fully ripened.
Similar to Weisslacker, a slow-ripening variety that takes four months.
Weisslacker, White Lacquer
Soft; piquant; semisharp; Allgäuer-type put up in cylinders and rectangles, 4½ by 4 by 3½, weighing 2½ pounds. One of Germany's finest soft cheeses.
The words Welsh and cheese have become synonyms down the ages. Welsh "cheeses can be attractive: the pale, mild Caerphilly was famous at one time, and nowadays has usually a factory flavor. A soft cream cheese can be obtained at some farms, and sometimes holds the same delicate melting sensuousness that is found in the poems of John Keats.
"The 'Resurrection Cheese' of Llanfihangel Abercowyn is no longer available, at least under that name. This cheese was so called because it was pressed by gravestones taken from an old church that had fallen into ruins. Often enough the cheeses would be inscribed with such wording as 'Here lies Blodwen Evans, aged 72.'" (From My Wales by Rhys Davies.)
I. England, Yorkshire.
Hard; blue-veined; double cream; similar to
Stilton. This production of the medieval town of Wensleydale in the Ure Valley is also called Yorkshire-Stilton and is in season from June to September. It is put up in the same cylindrical form as Stilton, but smaller. The rind is corrugated from the way the wrapping is put on.
II. White; flat-shaped; eaten fresh; made mostly from January through the Spring, skipping the season when the greater No. I is made (throughout the summer) and beginning to be made again in the fall and winter.
Werder, Elbinger and Niederungskäse
Semisoft cow's-milker, mildly acid, shaped like Gouda.
Skim-milk cheese eaten when only a week old. The honored antiquity of it is preserved in the anonymous English couplet:
Westphalia Sour Milk, or
Sour-milk hand cheese, kneaded by hand. Butter and/or egg yolk is mixed in with salt, and either pepper or caraway seeds. Then the richly colored curd is shaped by hand into small balls or rolls of about one pound. It is dried for a couple of hours before being put down cellar to ripen. The peculiar flavor is due partly to the seasonings and partly to the curd being allowed to putrify a little, like Limburger, before pressing.
This sour-milker is as celebrated as Westphalian raw ham. It is so soft and fat it makes a sumptuous spread, similar to Tilsit and Brinza. It was named Brioler from the "Gute Brioler" inn where it was perfected by the owner, Frau Westphal, well over a century ago.
The English sometimes miscall it Bristol from a Hobson-Jobson of the name Briol.
In The Cheddar Box, Dean Collins tells of an ancient legend in which the whales came into Tillamook Bay to be milked; and he poses the possible origin of some waxy fossilized deposits along the shore as petrified whale-milk cheese made by the aboriginal Indians after milking the whales.
White, Fromage Blanc
Skim-milk summer cheese made in many parts of the country and eaten fresh, with or without salt.
Any Cheddar that isn't colored with anatto is known as White Cheddar. Green Bay brand is a fine example of it.
This type without the distinguishing blue veins is little known outside of Italy where it is highly esteemed. (See Gorgonzola.)
This white form of England's royal blue cheese lacks the aristocratic veins that are really as green as Ireland's flag.
Firm; white; tangy; half-pound slabs boxed. Saltee is the same, except that it is colored.
Wilstermarsch-Käse Holsteiner Marsch
Semihard; full cream; rapidly cured; Tilsit type; very fine; made at Itzehoe.
Wiltshire or Wilts
A Derbyshire type of sharp Cheddar popular in Wiltshire. (See North Wilts.)
Wisconsin Factory Cheeses
Have the date of manufacture stamped on the rind, indicating by the age whether the flavor is "mild, mellow, nippy, or sharp." American Cheddar requires from eight months to a year to ripen properly, but most of it is sold green when far too young.
Notable Wisconsiners are Loaf, Limburger, Redskin and Swiss.
Cow taboos affect the cheesemaking in India, and in place of rennet from calves a vegetable rennet is made from withania berries. This names a cheese of agreeable flavor when ripened, but, unfortunately, it becomes acrid with age.
Yoghurt, or Yogurt
Made with Bacillus bulgaricus, that develops the acidity of the milk. It is similar to the English Saint Ivel.
York, York Curd and Cambridge York
A high-grade cream cheese similar to Slipcote, both of which are becoming almost extinct since World War II. Also, this type is too rich to keep any length of time and is sold on the straw mat on which it is cured, for local consumption.
This Stilton, made chiefly at Cotherstone, develops with age a fine internal fat which makes it so extra-juicy that it's a general favorite with English epicures who like their game well hung.
Short for New York State, the most venerable of our Cheddars.
A mild, young, yellow Cheddar.
Copying pear-and apple-shaped balls of Italian Provolone hanging on strings, a New York cheesemonger put out a Cheddar on a string, shaped like a yo-yo.
Whole milk, or whole milk with cream added. Aged only two months.
A general name in Germanic lands for cheeses made of goat's milk. Altenburger is a leader among Ziegenkäse.
I. This whey product is
not a true cheese, but a cheap form of food
made in all countries of central Europe and called albumin cheese, Recuit, Ricotta, Broccio, Brocotte, Serac, Ceracee, etc. Some are flavored with cider and others with vinegar. There is also a whey bread.
II. Similar to Corsican Broccio and made of sour sheep milk instead of whey. Sometimes mixed with sugar into small cakes.
Zips see Brinza.
Similar to Caciocavallo.
Zwirn see Tschil.