XIV. BACK THROUGH THE RANGES
In our camp on the first little lake north of Lake Disappointment we
ate on Monday morning (October 5th) the last of the grouse we had
killed on the previous day, and when we started forward we again were
down to the precious little stock of pea meal. In a storm of snow and
rain we floundered with the packs and canoe through a deep marsh, until
once more we stood on the shore of the big lake where we had spent the
weary days searching for a river—Lake Disappointment. We built a fire
on the shore to dry our rags and warm ourselves; for we were soaked
through and shivering with the cold. Then we launched the canoe and
Late in the afternoon we landed on an island that contained a
semi-barren knoll, but which otherwise was wooded with small spruce.
On the knoll we found an abundance of mossberries, and soon after we
had devoured them we happened upon a supper in the form of two
spruce-grouse. George and Hubbard each shot one. The sun's journey
across the sky was becoming noticeably shorter and shorter, and before
we had realised that the day was spent, night began to close in upon
us, and we pitched camp on the island.
In the morning (October 6) our breakfast flew right into camp. George
crawled out early to build a fire, and a moment later stuck his head in
the tent with the words, "Your pistol, Wallace." I handed it out to
him, and almost immediately we heard a shot. Then George reappeared,
holding up another spruce-grouse.
"This grub came right to us," he said; "I knocked the beggar over close
by the fire."
While we were eating the bird, Hubbard told us he had been dreaming
during the night of home. Nearly every day now we heard that he had
been dreaming the night before of his wife or his mother; they were
always giving him good things to eat, or he was going to good dinners
It had rained hard during the night, but with early morning there came
again the mixture of rain and snow we had endured on the day before.
When we put off in the canoe, we headed for the point where we expected
to make the portage across the two-mile neck of land that separated
Lake Disappointment from Lost Trail Lake; but soon we were caught by a
terrific gale, and for half an hour we sat low in the canoe doing our
best with the paddles to keep it headed to the wind and no one speaking
a word. The foam dashed over the sides of our little craft, soaking us
from head to foot. Tossed violently about by the big seas, we for a
time expected that every moment would be our last. Had George been
less expert with the stern paddle, we surely should have been swamped.
As it was we managed, after a desperate struggle, to gain the lee side
of a small, rocky island, upon which we took refuge.
At length the wind abated and the lake became calmer, and, venturing
out once more, we made for the mainland some distance to the west of
where we had intended to make our portage. There we stumbled upon a
river of considerable size flowing in a southwesterly direction from
Lake Disappointment into Lost Trail Lake. This river we had missed on
the up trail and here had lost the old Indian trail to Michikamau. I
volunteered to take my rifle and hunt across the neck of land
separating the two lakes while Hubbard and George ran the rapids; but
presently I heard them calling to me, and, returning to the river,
found them waiting on the bank.
"We'll camp just below here for the night," said Hubbard, "and finish
the river in the morning. I couldn't manage my end of the canoe in a
rapid we were shooting and we got on a rock. You'd better shoot the
rapids with George after this."
I suppose Hubbard's weakness prevented him from turning the canoe
quickly enough when occasion required, and he realised it.
All we had to eat that night was a little thin soup made from the pea
meal, and an even smaller quantity had to serve us for breakfast. In
the morning (October 7th) we shot the rapids without incident down into
Lost Trail Lake, and, turning to the eastward, were treated to a
delightful view of the Kipling Mountains, now snow-capped and
cold-looking, but appearing to us so much like old friends that it did
our hearts good to see them. It was an ideal Indian summer day, the
sun shining warmly down from a cloudless sky. Looking at the
snow-capped peaks that bounded the horizon in front of me, I thought of
the time when I had stood gazing at them from the other side, and of
the eagerness I had felt to discover what lay hidden beyond.
"Something hidden. Go and find it. Go and look behind the Ranges—<BR>
Something lost behind the Ranges. Lost and waiting for you. Go!"<BR>
Well, we had gone. And we had found what lay hidden behind the ranges.
But were we ever to get out to tell about it?
We stopped on the shore of Lost Trail Lake to eat some badly-needed
cranberries and mossberries. The mossberries, having been frozen, were
fairly sweet, and they modified, to some extent, the acid of the
cranberries, so that taken together they made a luncheon for which we,
in our great need, were duly grateful. After eating as many of the
berries as our stomachs would hold, we were able to pick a pan of them
to take with us.
Paddling on, we passed through the strait connecting Lost Trail Lake
with Lake Hope, and, recalling with grim smiles the enthusiastic cheers
we had sent up there a few weeks before, sped rapidly across Lake Hope
to the entrance of our old mountain pass, camping for the night on a
ridge near the old sweat holes of the medicine men. Our supper
consisted of a little more pea soup and half of the panful of berries.
While we were lying spoon-fashion under the blankets at night, it was
the custom for a man who got tired of lying on one side to say "turn,"
which word would cause the others to flop over immediately, usually
without waking. On this night, however, I said "turn over," and as we
all flopped, Hubbard, who had been awake, remarked: "That makes me
think of the turnovers and the spicerolls mother used to make for me."
And then he and I lay for an hour and talked of the baking days at the
homes of our childhood. Under-the-blanket talks like this were not
infrequent. "Are you awake, b'y?" Hubbard would ask. "Yes, b'y," I
would reply, and so we would begin. If we happened to arouse George,
which was not usual, Hubbard would insist on his describing over and
over again the various Indian dishes he had prepared.
Weak as we were upon leaving Lake Hope (October 8), we did an heroic
day's work. We portaged the entire six miles through the mountain
pass, camping at night on the westernmost of the lakes that constitute
the headwaters of the Beaver River, once more on the other side of the
ranges. We did this on a breakfast of pea soup and the rest of our
berries, and a luncheon of four little trout that Hubbard caught in the
stream that flows through the pass. I shot a spruce grouse in the
pass, and this bird we divided between us for supper. It was a
terrible day. The struggle through the brush and up the steep inclines
with the packs and the canoe so exhausted me that several times I
seemed to be on the verge of a collapse, and I found it hard to conceal
my condition. Once Hubbard said to me:
"Speak stronger, b'y. Put more force in your voice. It's so faint
George'll surely notice it, and it may scare him."
That was always the way with Hubbard. Despite his own pitiable
condition, he was always trying to help us on and give us new courage.
As a matter of fact, his own voice was getting so weak and low that we
frequently had to ask him to repeat.
And the day ended in a bitter disappointment. On our uptrail we had
had a good catch of trout at the place where the stream flowing out of
the pass fell into the lake near our camp, and it was the hope of
another good catch there that kept us struggling on to reach the end of
the pass before night. But Hubbard whipped the pool at the foot of the
fall in vain. Not a single fish rose. The day had been bright and
sunshiny, but the temperature was low and the fish had gone to deeper
It was a dismal camp. The single grouse we had for supper served only
to increase our craving for food. And there we were, with less than
two pounds of pea meal on hand and the fish deserting us, more than one
hundred and fifty miles from the post at Northwest River. By the fire
Hubbard again talked of home.
"I dreamed last night," he said, "that you and I, Wallace, were very
weak and very hungry, and we came all at once upon the old farm in
Michigan, and mother was there, and she made us a good supper of hot
tea biscuits with maple syrup and honey to eat on them. And how we ate
But George's customary grin was missing. In silence he took the tea
leaves from the kettle and placed them on a flat stone close by the
fire, and in silence he occasionally stirred them with a twig that he
broke from a bush at his back. At length, the tea leaves having dried
sufficiently, he filled his pipe from them, and I filled my pipe. We
had not had any tobacco to smoke for many days.
The silence continued. On my right sat George, his cheeks sunken, his
eyes deep down in their sockets, his long black hair falling over his
ears—there he sat stiffly erect, puffing his tea leaves with little
apparent satisfaction and gazing stoically into the fire. I could
guess what was passing through his mind—the stories of the Indians
On my left was Hubbard. He had assumed the attitude that of late had
become characteristic when he was dreaming of his wife and his mother
and his far-away home. His elbows were resting on his knees, and his
hands were supporting his head. His long hair hid his bony fingers and
framed his poor, wan face. His sunken eyes, with their look of wistful
longing, were fixed on the blazing logs.
The silence became so oppressive that I had to break it:
"George," I said, "were you never hungry before?"
"Never in my life was short of grub till now," he answered shortly.
At that Hubbard, aroused from his reverie, looked up.
"Well, I can tell you, George," he said, "there are worse places than
Labrador to starve in."
"How's that?" grunted George.
"If you had been as hungry as I have been in New York City, you'd know
what I mean," said Hubbard. "It's a heap worse to be hungry where
there's lots of grub around you than in the bush where there's none. I
remember that when I first went to New York, and was looking for work,
I found myself one rainy night with only five cents in my pocket. It
was all the money I had in the world, and I hadn't any friends in the
city, and I didn't want to write home, because nearly all the people
there had no faith in my venture. I was soaking wet and good and
hungry; I hadn't been eating much for several days. Well, I went to a
bakery and blew in my last nickel on stale rolls and crullers and took
them to my room. Then I took off my wet clothes and got into bed to
get warm and snug, and there I ate my rolls and crullers, and they were
bully. Yes, I remember that although my room rent was overdue, and I
didn't know where my breakfast was coming from, I was supremely happy;
I sort of felt I was doing the best I could."
We went to bed that night feeling that our lives now depended on
whether fish could be caught below.
More than anxious were we for the morrow, because then we should go to
the first rapid on the Beaver River below the lakes, and there in the
pool, where two fishings had yielded us more than one hundred and
thirty trout on the up trail, test our fortunes.
The morning (October 9th) dawned crisp and wintry. The sun rose in a
cloudless sky and set all the lake a-glinting. On the peaks of the
Kipling Mountains the sunbeams kissed the snow, causing it to gleam and
scintillate in brilliant contrast to the deep blue of the heavens above
and the dark green of the forests below. Under normal circumstances we
should have paused to drink in the beauty of it all; but as we in our
faithful old canoe paddled quickly down over the lake I am afraid that
none of us thought of anything save the outcome of the test we were to
make of our fortunes at the rapid for which we were bound. It is
difficult to be receptive to beauty when one has had only a little
watered pea meal for breakfast after a long train of lean and hungry
days. We were glad only that the sun was modifying the chill air of
the dawn, thus increasing our chance of getting fish.
How friendly the narrow lake looked where we had seen the otter at play
at sunset and where the loons had laughed at us so derisively. And the
point, where we had camped that August night and roasted our goose
seemed very homelike. We stopped there for a moment to look for bones.
There were a few charred ones where the fire had been. They crumbled
without much pressure, and we ate them. No trout were jumping in the
lake now—its mirror-like surface was unbroken. All was still, very
still. To our somewhat feverish imagination it seemed as if all nature
were bating its breath as if tensely waiting for the outcome at the
I can hardly say what we expected. I fear my own faith was weak, but I
believe Hubbard's was strong—his was the optimistic temperament. How
glad we were to feel the river current as it caught the canoe and
hurried it on to the rapid! Suddenly, as we turned a point in the
stream, the sound of the rushing waters came to us. A few moments more
and we were there. Just above the rapid we ran the canoe ashore, and
Hubbard with his rod hurried down to the pool and cast a fly upon the